I've been dreaming about County Mayo for ages, and now that I've explored it, I can't wait to share every windswept, sea-sprayed, absolutely magical moment with you! This post kicks off a series about my time on a Wild Atlantic Way Tour, in County Mayo. So get ready for history, adventure, and plenty of friendly travel tips along the Wild Atlantic Way.
This is the first of three articles, and in this one, I'll focus on the ancient Ceide Fields Mayo, Ireland. Also, Downpatrick Head, County Mayo, Ireland, Belmullet, and the Carne Golf Links. Feel free to move things around as they fit your trip; flexibility is part of the fun!
Údarás na Gaeltachta
✨ A special thank you to Údarás na Gaeltachta, who sponsored my time in County Mayo and made this experience possible. Údarás na Gaeltachta is an Irish regional authority dedicated to supporting economic, cultural, and language development within the Gaeltacht, the Irish-speaking regions of Ireland. Their mission is to sustain local communities, promote creativity, and preserve the Irish language while helping businesses and tourism thrive.
Traveling through Mayo, you can feel their influence everywhere, in the warmth of the people, the thriving local crafts, and the pride in Irish language and culture that's woven through daily life.
When the Wild Atlantic Way Tour = Ancient History With a Mix of the Modern
Now, full disclosure, for this section in County Mayo, on the Wild Atlantic Way Tour, I didn't complete everything in this exact order. (Because real travel always includes detours, snacks, and a few "Wait, let's stop there!" moments.) But if I were planning a Mayo itinerary, this is how I'd do it for day 1.
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Downpatrick Head : Legends and Sea Stacks on the Edge of the World
A short drive down the coast, and boom! The scenery turns from softly rolling hills to jaw-dropping drama. Downpatrick Head is located on the rugged North Mayo coastline. It stands out as one of the highlights of County Mayo and the Wild Atlantic Way. Incidentally, it looks like something straight out of an adventure movie (and, honestly, could double as the set of one).
Here, the Dún Briste sea stack rises defiantly from the Atlantic Ocean, layers of rock stacked like a geological lasagna. Legend says St. Patrick himself struck the cliff to separate a stubborn chieftain from the mainland. Whether you believe the story or not, the view here in North Mayo, is pure magic.
You'll also find Poll na Seantainne, the blowhole that roars with each incoming wave, nature's reminder that this coastline has power and personality. Just don't lean too far over the edge; Mayo winds are not shy. (That's why there's a fence!)
You definitely want Downpatrick Head, County Mayo, on your tour itinerary. If you love photography, bring a wide-angle lens (and maybe an Irish scarf you don't mind dramatically whipping in the breeze).
Capturing the View in County Mayo: Photography Tips
- 🕶️ Best time: Late afternoon when the light hits the sea stack just right
- 📸 Wide angle for scale - that stack is massive!
- ⚠️ Safety first: stay behind the fences; the wind means business
Céide Fields: Stone Walled Fields and a Visitor Centre
If you've ever wanted to time-travel without a flux capacitor, Céide Fields is one of the highlights of the Wild Atlantic Way tour. This remarkable archaeological site is located in County Mayo, Ireland. Hidden beneath layers of bog for thousands of years, this archaeological wonder holds the oldest known field systems in the world.
The people who built these stone walled fields were farming while Stonehenge was still on the drawing board. Céide Fields is an archaeological site dating back over 5,000 years. It showcases the extensive history and period of human activity in the region.
The visitor center gives you a great overview, but the real magic happens when you step outside. The wind tugs at your jacket, the Atlantic gleams in the distance. Next, your guide points to an unassuming patch of land: "Under there? Ancient stone walls." The site was discovered by archaeologists, notably the Caulfield family, who unearthed and identified its historical significance.
It's humbling and a little thrilling to imagine Neolithic farmers tending fields right here. They lived ordinary lives that somehow became extraordinary over time.
What to Know Before You Go
- 📍 Location: About 8 miles northwest of Ballycastle, County Mayo
- ⏰ Allow at least 45-60 minutes to explore the site and award winning visitor centre
- 💶 There is a fee for entry to the visitor centre. Check their website for current rates.
- 🕒 Note: The visitor centre closes in November.
- ☀️ Best time: Early morning or golden hour for the best light
- 💡 Teacher Tip: Bring curious questions, the guides love them!
Céide Fields can easily be included in various Wild Atlantic Way itineraries, whether you are planning a self-drive or guided tour.
Belmullet & Carne Golf Links: The Modern Spirit of Mayo
After exploring thousands of years of history, it was time for something modern. Or at least, as modern as a windswept golf course perched above the Atlantic can be. Our journey brought us to the charming village of Belmullet, a local hub known for its scenic beauty and warm hospitality. Now don't worry, I'll talk more about it in my next post!
Carne Golf Links is one of those courses that makes even non-golfers pause for a "Wow." Designed by Eddie Hackett, it's a wild masterpiece sculpted into the dunes. The sweeping ocean views and fairways that seem to roll like waves themselves. Whether you're here for the game or just the scenery, it's a spectacular stop along the Wild Atlantic Way. The pace of play at Carne Golf Links is relaxed, allowing you to truly savor each hole and take in the breathtaking surroundings without ever feeling rushed.
Now… story time.
My golf game? Let's just say "work in progress" might be generous. But after a couple of warm-up swings, I was starting to feel good, the kind of confident where you think, Okay, maybe this time I've got it!
Then came Hole 3 - arguably one of the most beautiful greens on the course, closest to the water. The view was picture-perfect, the wind just enough to feel adventurous… and then the sky opened up.
Not a drizzle. Not a polite mist. A full, cinematic Irish downpour.
Despite my waterproof boots and raincoat, I was soaked to the bone in about 30 seconds. The Atlantic wind laughed in my face, my ball disappeared somewhere near the horizon, and I briefly considered building an ark.
Just as I was debating whether to cry or laugh (leaning toward cry), rescue arrived in the form of Bryan, our hero in white glasses, in a golf cart, already loaded with one of our group and the golf clubs. He whisked us back to the clubhouse like a soggy rescue mission.
Back in the changing area, I toweled off and wrung out what used to be my hairstyle. Then I made my way into the warm embrace of the Carne Golf Links Clubhouse, and oh, what a contrast.
Carne Golf Links Clubhouse
Inside: cozy fireplace, a welcoming team of staff, and the comforting hum of laughter. I joined the rest of my small group tour and was handed a hot whiskey (because Ireland knows how to fix bad weather). After a few moments to relax, it was followed by the most perfectly crisp fish and chips. Heaven.
For good measure, I also ordered my Irish favorite - a hard dry cider - because as much as I appreciate Guinness, it's a one-and-done for me. And cider is usually a gluten free choice!
That warmth, that kindness, that sense of "Ah, sure, it's all part of the adventure", it's what makes Mayo unforgettable.
Would I golf here again? Absolutely. Next time, I'll aim for a sunny round (and a bit more golf practice at home first), because those views deserve a second chance, and honestly, so does my swing.
The next morning at our hotel (the Talbot), I found myself chatting with a gentleman who'd flown in just to golf at Carne. For once, I could almost hold my own in the conversation, though I left out the part about the impromptu rain bath.
Practical Travel Tips
🚗 Getting There: Downpatrick Head and Céide Fields are about twenty minutes apart along the Wild Atlantic Way. Both make perfect stops on a road trip from Letterkenny or Ballina. The Carne Golf Links is about 40 more minutes, driving, west of Céide Fields.
🕒 Best Time to Visit: May-September for the most sunshine (and the least dramatic rain).
🍽️ Where to Eat: Try the Carne Golf Links Clubhouse for lunch with a view and head to McDonnell's Pub in Belmullet for a pint, a song, and a story!
🧥 What to Pack: Windproof jacket, sturdy shoes, camera, and a sense of adventure. (Optional: emergency chocolate. Trust me.)
Reflections on Ireland's Wild Atlantic Way: A Journey Beyond the Beaten Path
County Mayo isn't a place you simply visit, it's one you feel. From the buried stories at Céide Fields to the roaring cliffs of Downpatrick Head, and finally to the warm community in Belmullet, this corner of Ireland is layered with culture, heart, and a touch of salt spray.
As my time in County Mayo came to a close, I couldn't help but reflect on just how much this corner of Ireland captures the very essence of the Wild Atlantic Way. From ancient megalithic tombs to dramatic cliffs, from charming seaside villages to windswept fields, this journey along the west coast of the Emerald Isle felt like stepping through time, and into a story still being written. But don't worry, I still have much more to share!
Travelers on a Wild Atlantic Way Tour
For travelers planning a Wild Atlantic Way tour, County Mayo offers that perfect balance of adventure and peace. It's the kind of place where you can explore the beaten path one moment and find quiet reflection the next. Whether you prefer guided tours, or your own self-driven day tours, this region rewards curiosity.
There are various itineraries available for the Wild Atlantic Way tour, allowing you to choose a route and schedule that fits your interests and pace. It's ideal for anyone looking to combine cultural experiences with moments of pure, unfiltered natural beauty.
Why County Mayo?
You might arrive here from Dublin, after flights and city bustle, ready for something slower, something real. Mayo delivers that in abundance. The Wild Atlantic coastline provides access to Ireland's wildest landscapes, where history isn't tucked behind glass cases but scattered across the hills in stone circles, standing crosses, and silent megalithic tombs.
From here, you can continue your Atlantic Way tour south toward the Cliffs of Moher, Galway City, the Aran Islands, or County Kerry, or north to Donegal's rugged peaks, each offering new excursions and endless opportunities to explore. And after a full day of activity, there's always the warmth of Irish accommodation, a cozy meal, and a friendly chat waiting wherever you stay.
If you're planning to visit Ireland, don't miss County Mayo and the west coast. This part of the country doesn't just show you scenery, it shares its soul.
And when you find yourself standing on a cliff's edge, wind tangling your hair, waves pounding below, and the horizon stretching beyond sight, you'll understand why no photo, no postcard, no itinerary could ever quite capture the magic of Ireland's Wild Atlantic Way.
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Planning your own County Mayo adventure? Save this post for later or share it with your favorite travel buddy, and stay tuned for Part 2: Tides, Lighthouses, and Islands Lost to Time on the Erris Peninsula! (Spoiler: Part 2 may be my favorite part of the trip!)
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